In a glorified strip mall, Timó (Italian for "thyme") is worth the trip from anywhere in South Florida. It's a kind of locals' secret. The handsome bistro, owned and operated by Chef Tim Andriola, has dark-wood walls, Chicago brick, and a stone-encased wood-burning stove. Andriola has an affinity for robust Mediterranean flavors: sweetbreads with bacon, honey, and aged balsamic vinegar; inexpensive, artisanal pizzas; and homemade pastas. Wood-roasted meats and Parmesan dumplings in a truffle broth are not to be missed. Every bite of every dish attests to the care given, and the service is terrific.