Fodor's Expert Review The Setai Grill

Haute steak house meets Asian inspiration at The Setai Grill. Executive Chef Mathias Gervais reinterprets American classics using the Rolls Royces of the food industry (think: Pat LaFrieda beef, Cinco Jotas's jamón Ibérico, and Marky's caviar) and adding a French-Asian, contemporary twist. While the LaFrieda prime cuts and the braised meats are predictably superb, Gervais goes more avante-garde than his steaks with the first and second courses. The crab cannelloni, for example, is a sensational taste explosion, as the flavors of Florida stone crab, avocado, mango, rice pearls, salmon roe, and coconut air unite on a single plate.