East meets West in the open-theater kitchen helmed by chef Mathias Gervais, where dishes reflect the divine and disparate flavors of Asia—from Thailand and India to China and Malaysia. Indeed, dining here is a culinary tour of Asia. With its harmonious courtyard reflecting pool and polished-stone interiors, the setting of The Setai is so dramatically beautiful that a less-than-heavenly dining experience would be a blow. Even so, the restaurant exceeds all expectations.
Dishes—such as steamed yellowtail snapper with ginger soy, sweet soy, and green onions; perfectly cooked dim sum; and curries—come family-style in native crockery. The leather-bound wine list is 45 pages long.