Thanks to word of mouth, this northern Italian restaurant is constantly full of the most refined clink and clatter along sometimes-seedy Washington Avenue. Stay clear of the printed menu, however, and order one of the many daily specials. A representative appetizer is poached asparagus served over polenta triangles with a Gorgonzola sauce. Stuffed pastas, including spinach crepes overflowing with ricotta, can seem heavy but taste light; fish dishes yield a rosemary-marinated tuna or salmon in a rosemary shiitake lemon sauce.
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