The backlighted, amber bar and birch-log wall create a warm and natural look at this showcase for no-frills contemporary American bistro food. Start with deviled eggs or blue cheese-stuffed, bacon-wrapped dates from the clever "urban picnic" menu of small plates. More-standard comfort food includes a mini-pot roast with mashed potatoes and roasted chicken with dirty rice. The small wine list, made up mostly of California boutique labels, is well chosen and priced fairly, and gluten-free menus are well-curated.
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