Chef Frank Ruta and pastry chef Ann Amernick met while working in the White House kitchens. At their contemporary American restaurant, the French- and Italian-influenced menu changes seasonally. Sometimes Ruta and Amernick team up, as for an appetizer of crisp puff pastry with fresh sardines and greens. Ruta goes it alone with chervil-and-morel soup, a veal chop with a barley-stuffed pepper, and a pork chop with flavorful baked beans. Comforting desserts such as a sprightly lemon-caramel tart or a chocolate torte are a perfect match for the earthy cooking. Reservations are not accepted for the equally fabulous lounge, where the inexpensive menu includes a cheeseburger with truffles, a hot dog made in-house, and an extravagant platter of fries, onion rings, and paper-thin fried Meyer lemon slices.
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