Restaurateur Paolo Sacco has seen many a foodie trend come and go during his years at the helm of this northern Italian favorite, which relies on stability and a central Downtown location to weather the twists and turns of time. The food here draws heavily from the Lake Como region, featuring such tiny polpette meatballs with polenta and grilled fresh fish, but isn't limited by it. Standouts abound on the house-made pasta menu, particularly the duck ravioli. Save
room for dessert, especially the chef's version of tiramisu, served in a martini glass, and take advantage of the $38 three-course pretheater menu until 6:30 pm.