The capital's hip young things usually begin their nights out with cocktails, not high-concept food, but this kitschy den of sushi and karaoke is a popular exception. Between the trippy wall-mounted light sculptures and the gigantic gong that rings with every order of a mind-altering "sake bomb," a night out here is always exciting. New customers are thrilled to trade in those predictable California rolls for a Dirty South, made with tempura-battered sweet potatoes, or
a Billy Goat's Gruff, where fresh yellowtail is slathered in goat cheese and dosed with piquant ponzu sauce. Those expecting thrilling service, however, may leave frustrated.