This rustic, dimly lighted slip of a wine bar brings chic cuisine to the still-gentrifying streets of the city's hippest neighborhood. The wine list features rare varietals—with a dozen still under $10 per glass. Even teetotalers will find much to love among the menu's classic dishes. The duck confit, lately garbed in pickled cherries, and avocado bruschetta with pistachio oil are particular standouts, while the goat cheesecake has made its inventor locally famous. The one thing missing: intimacy. Expect to stand uncomfortably close to fellow tipplers at the bar and have a minimum of room to move even with a reserved table.
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