Many chefs are fond of artisanal and local ingredients. Chef Sebastien Archambault is so committed to the cause that fixings are often strewn across marble counters in the restaurant's show kitchen. By now diners have gotten used to watching pastry chefs churn ice cream to be served minutes later in glass ice buckets, but sweets—and watching for the town's biggest political names to claim their favorite tables—aren't the only pleasures. The kitchen, located in the
Park Hyatt Hotel, wows with Modern American riffs like 12-hour suckling pig in jus, an oven-roasted marrowbone with creamy insides, and rightly famous "triple" steak fries, thrice-doused in dreamy duck fat. The dining room is stylish, done up with Shaker furniture and quilts.