The miniburgers, served on toasted brioche buns with a huge mound of fried onion strings, get the most press, but the main clue to what to order at this convivial triple-decker bar-restaurant is the glowing wood-burning pizza oven. The personal pizzas are "New York–style," with a thin, crisp crust. You probably won't mistake them for the very best of New York, but the spicy "Fire and Smoke" pie does the Big Apple one better. Homey plates such as braised short ribs with pumpkin risotto add substance to the menu. There's a great lineup of draft beers and cocktails, plus a brunch anchored by a crowd-pleasing skillet of cinnamon rolls. Two other locations, in the hopping U St. corridor and near Eastern Market, are architectural stunners.
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