A lovely formal dining room, skillful service, and sophisticated cooking make this restaurant one of Washington's perennial favorites despite its occasionally lamentable portions. Start with tapas: fried artichokes with traditional Iberian ham or scallops with mango. Proceed to onion soup with goat cheese and venture on to one of four authentic paellas and fine Spanish country dishes. Strawberries with crisped meringue are a light ending to this rich fare. The plush interior and handsome bar make things romantic and help attract a well-heeled clientele.