This restaurant manages to be at once swanky yet youthful, and its bar scene is hip but low-key, with inventive cocktails and nibbles like miniature Vietnamese banh mi sandwiches, spinach salad with tender chunks of bacon and fried onions, and an irresistible "nutty goat" flatbread. In the elegant sunken dining room the menu reads like a tasting menu, but the portions are hardly tiny. The diner calls the shots. Kobe beef is shaped into whimsical ravioli-esque shapes thanks to hand-stretched chestnut pasta. And the place is not without a touch of whimsy courtesy of portholelike fish tanks filled with goldfish in the restrooms.