Remember the last time a quirky new musical group or movie seemed to take over the world, racking up fans despite being more than a little, well, weird? This is that phenomenon in a restaurant. This basement hideout next-door to chef Johnny Monis's world-beating Komi gives the wunderkind chef a chance to cook Thai his way—which happens to be the northern Thais' way. The ingredients are spicy, the presentations sometimes off-putting (what is a snakehead fish?), and the waitresses can be sullen pixies, but for sheer moxie and skill, the food is the best in the city. Maybe the best anywhere south of New York. Just remember: No substitutions or special requests, and they mean it.