Remember the last time a quirky new musical group or movie seemed to take over the world, racking up fans despite being more than a little, well, weird? This is that phenomenon in a restaurant. This basement hideout next door to chef Johnny Monis's world-beating Komi gives the wunderkind chef a chance to cook Thai his way—which happens to be the northern Thais' way. The ingredients are spicy, the presentations sometimes off-putting (what is a snakehead fish?), and the waitresses can be sullen pixies, but for sheer moxie and skill, the food is the best in the city–-maybe the best anywhere south of New York. Just remember: no substitutions or special requests, and they mean it.