If there's a recipe for a perfect country inn restaurant, Chef David Dunlap and co-owner/sommelier Neil Wavra have it. Head an hour or so west from D.C., and your reward is extraordinary comfort food. Dishes are made with eclectic pairings of fresh local ingredients and presented in an intimate setting. Quail is smoked in hickory chips and mated with meaty hedgehog mushrooms, while chocolate fudge is emboldened by herbal chai spices and a candied crouton garnish. A tasting menu is available for $99, or $159 with wine pairings.