Call it the Brando of D.C. pizzerias, because this Neapolitan sensation has played godfather to a number of throne-stealing wood ovens elsewhere in town since it opened more than a decade ago. Simple recipes allow the ingredients to shine through and make the "wine bar" menu of small Italian plates as exemplary as the pies. You may be tempted to go for the D.O.C. pizza (it has Denominazione di Origine Controllata approval for Neapolitan authenticity), but don't hesitate to try the smoked salmon or anchovy crostini. At busy times the wait for a table can exceed an hour, and the noisy din of a packed house may discourage some diners.