A magnificent copper beech tree shades this 1890 inn, set on 7 wooded Connecticut River valley acres. The venerable landmark has a luxe, sophisticated, even grand look. Rooms and suites, split between the main house and what was once a turn-of-the-20th-century carriage house, are all lavishly dressed with fine fabrics and furnishings, and all have fireplaces, radiant-heat flooring, and whirlpool baths. Some have soaring post-and-beam ceilings. The formal restaurant as well as the newer Brasserie Pip are open to all for fine French cuisine at night, and the inn serves a guests a lavish breakfast each morning. Pros: the restaurants alone are worth a stay here, serene and beautifully kept grounds, first-rate service. Cons: though posh, rooms and baths are still a tad dated; a short drive from downtown Essex.
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