Essex, consistently named one of the best small towns in the United States, looks much like it did in the mid-19th century, at the height of its shipbuilding prosperity. Essex's boat manufacturing was so important to the early United States that the British burned more than 40 ships here during the War of 1812. Gone are the days of steady trade with the West Indies, when the aroma of imported rum, molasses, and spices hung in the air. Whitewashed houses—many the former roosts of sea captains—line Main Street, which has shops that sell clothing, antiques, paintings and prints, and sweets.
When there was every reason in the world to stay away and see the ruins, one woman traveled to Greece to get to work.More