Connecticut Feature

Behold the lobster roll. Sweet, succulent, and sinfully rich, it's the ultimate buttery icon of a Connecticut summer. Other New England states may prefer to chill out with lobster rolls created from a cool mix of lobster meat, mayonnaise, and chopped celery, but Nutmeggers like their one-of-a-kind rolls served hot, hot, hot.

The traditional Connecticut lobster roll, said to have been invented in the early 1930s at Perry's, a now-defunct seafood shack on the Boston Post Road in Milford, consists of nothing more than plump chunks of hot lobster meat and melted butter served on a butter-toasted roll. In other words: heaven on a bun. From seafood shanties along the shore to more gourmet getaways farther inland, Connecticut is fairly swimming with eateries that offer these revered rolls. Three favorites:

Abbott's Lobster in the Rough. A lobster roll at Abbott's Lobster in the Rough is best enjoyed seated at a picnic table at the edge of Noank Harbor watching the boats bob by. 117 Pearl St., Noank, CT, 06340. 860/536-7719. www.abbotts-lobster.com. Closed mid-Oct.-May.

Lenny and Joe's Fish Tale. At Lenny and Joe's Fish Tale, kids of all ages love to eat their lobster rolls or fried seafood outdoors by a hand-carved Dentzel carousel with flying horses (and a whale, frog, lion, seal, and more), which the restaurant runs from early May through early October. 1301 Boston Post Rd., Madison, CT, 06498. 203/245-7289. www.ljfishtale.com.

Marnick's. You can take your lobster roll to go for a picnic on a small beach on the Long Island Sound, or enjoy a leisurely after-dinner stroll along the sea wall here. 10 Washington Pkwy., Stratford, CT, 06615. 203/377-6288. www.marnicks.com.