Before Telluride's ski area opened in 1971, the town had been as remote as it was back in Cassidy's day. It was even briefly included on the "Ghost Town Club of Colorado" itinerary, but that was before countercultural types moved in, seeking to lose themselves in the wilderness. By 1974 the town's orientation had changed so radically that the entire council was composed of hippies. An enduring Telluride tradition called the Freebox (Pine Street and Colorado Avenue), where residents can sort through and take whatever used clothing and appliances they need, remains as a memento of those times. Despite such efforts at keeping visible signs of wealth away, more and more locals are finding they can no longer afford to live here. And thanks to the construction of the Telluride Regional Airport in the mid-1980s, it has drawn ever more people. Today Telluride is an upscale alternative to Vail and Aspen.
Black Canyon of the Gunnison River is one of Colorado's, and indeed the West's, most awe-inspiring wonders. A vivid testament to the powers of erosion, the 2,722-foot-deep gash in the Earth's crust is 1,000 feet across at its rim but then narrows to only 40 feet across at the bottom. The steep angles of the cliffs make it difficult for sunlight to fully break through during much of the day, and ever-present shadows bounce off the canyon walls, leaving some places in almost perpetual darkness -- nearly pitch-black at night and a sort of dusk with tunnel vision during the day. No wonder it's called the "Black Canyon." The primary gateway to Black Canyon is Montrose, 15 mi northeast of the park.
Like Aspen, the town of Crested Butte was once a quaint mining village. The Victorian gingerbread-trim houses remain -- albeit painted in whimsical shades of hot pink, magenta, and chartreuse. Unlike Aspen, however, Crested Butte never became chic. A controversial ad campaign for the ski area touted it as "Aspen like it used to be, and Vail like it never was."
Laid out at 6,500 feet along the winding Animas River, with the San Juan Mountains as backdrop, Durango was founded in 1879 by General William Palmer, president of the all-powerful Denver & Rio Grande Railroad. The booming town quickly became the region's main metropolis and a gateway to the Southwest. A walking tour of the historic downtown bears eloquent witness to Durango's prosperity during the late 19th century. The northern end of Main Avenue offers the usual assortment of cheap motels and fast-food outlets, all evidence of Durango's present status as the major hub for tourism in the area.
Lake City and Creede are in one of the most beautiful areas of Colorado. Both have colorful histories, and both offer excellent access to the many hiking and mountain-biking trails in the Gunnison National Forest and the Rio Grande National Forest. If you're driving through here, especially on the Silver Thread Scenic Byway or the Alpine Loop Scenic Byway, allow plenty of time because you'll want to keep stopping to take pictures of the surrounding mountains.
North of the U.S. 160 and U.S. 550 junction are two well-known recreational playgrounds: the ravishing golf course and development at the Lodge at Tamarron, and Purgatory at Durango Mountain Resort. Purgatory, as everyone still calls this ski area despite its recent name change, is about as down-home as a ski resort can get. The clientele includes cowboys, families, and college students on break.