Keystone

One of the region's most laid-back destinations, Keystone is understandably popular with families and, as the state's only large resort to offer night skiing (with lifts running until 9 PM), has long been a local favorite. Its trails are spread across three adjoining peaks: Dercum Mountain, North Peak, and the Outback. Through the years, as the resort added more runs, it morphed from a beginner's paradise on Keystone Mountain to an early-season training stop for the national ski teams that practice on the tougher and bumpier terrain on North Peak. During the 2006-07 season, Keystone even added full-day guided snowcat tours ($100; backcountry ski gear like avalanche beacons, shovels, and probes are provided for those without). Today it's a resort for all types of skiers and riders, whether they prefer gentle slopes, cruising, or high-adrenaline challenges on the Outback's steep bowls.

The planners were sensitive to the environment, favoring colors and materials that blend inconspicuously with the natural surroundings. Lodging, shops, and restaurants are in Lakeside Village, the older part of the resort, and in River Run, a newer area at the base of the gondola that has become the heart of Keystone. Everything at the resort is operated by Keystone, which makes planning a vacation here one-stop shopping. Keystone is quickly becoming a magnet in summer, with a small lake for water sports, mountain biking and hiking trails, two golf courses that have been ranked highly by golf magazines, and outdoor concerts and special events.

Downhill Skiing & Snowboarding

What you see from the base of the mountain is only a fraction of the terrain you can enjoy when you ski or snowboard at Keystone. There's plenty more to Keystone Mountain, and much of it is geared to novice and intermediate skiers. The Schoolmarm Trail has 3.5 mi of runs where you can practice turns. Dercum Mountain is easily reached from the base via high-speed chairs or the River Run gondola. You can ski or ride down the back side of Dercum Mountain to reach North Peak, a mix of groomed cruising trails and ungroomed bump runs.

If you prefer to bypass North Peak, the River Run gondola is a short walk from the Outpost gondola, which takes you to the Outpost Lodge (home to the Alpenglow Stube, which at 11,444 feet above sea level is advertised as the "highest gourmet restaurant in the country"). From here it's an easy downhill run to the third mountain, appropriately named the Outback because of its wilderness setting. Some glades have trees thinned just enough for skiers and riders who are learning to explore gladed terrain; other sections are reserved for advanced skiers. Weather permitting, the resort also has snowcat tours that whisk you up to powder skiing on some of the state's steepest terrain.

One of the most popular nonskiing or boarding sports at Keystone is tubing. Both Adventure Point at the summit of Dercum Mountain (Wednesday-Sunday noon-4 PM and noon-8 PM on night-skiing days) and the Keystone Nordic Center have tube rentals and runs, but reserve a day or two ahead of time. Personal sleds and tubes are not allowed. Hwy. 6. 970/468-2316 or 800/239-1639. www.keystoneresort.com. Skiing: late Oct.-late Apr.; call for hrs.

Facilities

3,128-foot vertical drop; 3,148 skiable acres; 19% beginner, 32% intermediate, 49% advanced; 20 lifts; 2 gondolas, 1 super six lift, 5 high-speed quad chairs, 1 quad chair, 1 triple chair, 3 double chairs, 7 surface lifts and carpets.

Lessons & Programs

Keystone has a variety of instructional programs, from half-day group lessons to specialty clinics, including mogul classes and women's seminars. A notable special program is the Mahre Training Center with intensive three- and five-day clinics hosted by Phil or Steve Mahre, both Olympic medalists.

Lift Tickets

With prices at $86 for a lift ticket, few skiers pay the walk-up rate. Season passes, which range from 10 days of skiing to unlimited access, are available through Vail Resorts, which owns Keystone, Breckenridge, Vail, and Beaver Creek. Most vacationers purchase lift-and-lodging packages or multiday lift passes at discounted rates online and at local Safeway and King Soopers grocery stores.

Rentals

Rental packages (skis, boots, and poles, or snowboards and boots) start at around $35 per day for a basic package but increase quickly for high-performance gear. Cheaper ski and snowboard stores are found in Breckenridge, Dillon, and Frisco.

Child Care

Keystone has Children's Centers at the base of River Run and at the Mountain House for children three months to six years. The resort also has private classes for families.

Nordic Skiing

The Keystone Cross-Country Center (River Course Clubhouse. 800/354-4386) has 35 mi of trails available for track skiing, skate skiing, and snowshoeing. Lessons and rentals of cross-country skis and snowshoes are available.

Breathless?

Feeling breathless, nauseous, and crummy? Fifteen percent of skiers in Colorado and Utah experience some degree of altitude sickness if they arrive from sea level. Indulge in wakeful resting, avoid alcohol and high-carbohydrate food, drink plenty of water, and take aspirin for headaches. If your body doesn't adapt within a day or two, or if your symptoms worsen, consult a doctor. The only remedy may be to descend.