At this casual but cozy eatery that serves a Mediterranean menu filled with affordable and memorable dishes, it maks sense to start with a tasting plate of charcuterie—$16 for three such tidbits as lamb sausage, duck liver mousse, and boudin blanc (white sausage)—and then try the housemade cavatelli (ricotta dumplings) or the duck meatballs on creamy polenta as an entrée. It's hard to save room for dessert, but it's equally hard to choose between the elegant concoctions
(the chocolate and fleur de sel caramel tart is outstanding) and the housemade ice creams and sorbets. Service is friendly but snappy, and although the wine list is short, it's filled with well-chosen low-priced bottles. Still, it's the innovative happy-hour cocktails that truly have the town talking, along with the elaborate weekend brunches.