The restaurant's steel-gray, orange-and-red contemporary decor belies the fact that it's one of the most authentic Italian restaurants in the city. Chef-owner Frank Bonanno summons the memory of his Italian grandmother to re-create small-town Italy through wild boar with pappardelle, goat-stuffed caramelle (pasta shaped like candy wrappers), and house-cured capocollo and homemade cheeses. His tiramisu and chocolate sorbet have to be tasted to be believed. Service,
overseen by Jacqueline Bonanno, is as impeccable as it is at Bonanno's many other restaurants (Mizuna, Osteria Marco, and Bones, to name a few), and the wine list is agreeably priced and heavy on interesting Italians.