Downhill Skiing and Snowboarding

Aspen is really four ski areas rolled into one resort. Aspen Highlands, Aspen Mountain (Ajax, to locals), Buttermilk, and Snowmass can all be skied with the same ticket. Three are clustered close to downtown Aspen, but Snowmass is down the valley in Snowmass Village. A free shuttle system connects the four.

Aspen Highlands. Locals' favorite Aspen Highlands is essentially one long ridge with trails dropping off either side, with thrilling descents at Golden Horn and Olympic Bowl and hike-in runs at Highland Bowl. The steep and often bumpy cluster of trails around Steeplechase and Highland Bowl makes this mountain one of the best places to be on a good-powder day. Aspen Highlands has a wide-open bowl called Thunder Bowl that's popular with intermediate skiers, as well as plenty of lower-mountain blue runs. The best overall downhill run is Highland Bowl. Besides the comparatively short lift lines and some heart-pounding runs, a highlight of Aspen Highlands is your first trip to the 12,392-foot summit. The view, which includes the Maroon Bells and Pyramid Peak, is the area's most dramatic and one of the best in the country. Facilities: 117 trails; 1,040 acres; 3,635-foot vertical drop; 5 lifts. Maroon Creek Rd., Aspen, Colorado, 81612. 970/925–1220; 800/525–6200; www.aspensnowmass.com. Lift ticket $179. Mid-Dec.–mid-Apr., daily 9–4.

Aspen Mountain. Open since 1946, Aspen Mountain is a dream destination for mogul and steep skiers. Bell Mountain provides some of the best bump skiing anywhere, followed by Walsh's (also a favorite for snowboarders), Hyrup's, and Kristi's. Those wanting long cruisers head to the ridges or valleys: Ruthie's Run and International are the classics. There are no novice-level runs here: this is a resort where nearly half the trails are rated advanced or expert, and a black-diamond trail here might rank as a double black diamond elsewhere. The narrow ski area is laid out on a series of steep, unforgiving ridges with little room for error. Most skiers spend much of the morning on intermediate trails off the upper-mountain quad. Then they head for lunch on the deck of Bonnie's, the popular mid-mountain restaurant. After a big storm, there's snowcat skiing on the back side of the mountain. Many trails funnel into Spar Gulch, so it can be quite crowded late in the day. For an alternate route, head down the west side of the mountain below the Ruthie's chair, and take the road back to the main base area. Facilities: 76 trails; 675 acres; 3,267-foot vertical drop; 8 lifts. E. Durant Ave., Aspen, Colorado, 81611. 970/925–1220; 800/525–6200; www.aspensnowmass.com. Lift ticket $179. Late Nov.–mid-Apr., daily 9–4.

Buttermilk. If you're looking for an escape from the hustle and bustle of Aspen, spend a day at Buttermilk—a family-friendly place where it's virtually impossible to get into trouble. Buttermilk is terrific for novices, intermediates, and freestylers, thanks to the superpipe and Buttermilk Park (which has more than 100 features). A low-key, lighthearted sort of place, it's an antidote to the kind of hotdogging you might encounter at Aspen Mountain. Red's Rover on West Buttermilk is a mellow long run for beginners, while Racer's Edge appeals to speed demons. Among the featured attractions is a hangout for children named The Hideout. The Tiehack section to the east, with sweeping views of Maroon Creek valley, has several advanced runs (though nothing truly expert). It also has superb powder, and the deep snow sticks around longer because many serious skiers overlook this mountain. Buttermilk's allure hasn't been lost on pros, however: it's the longtime host of the Winter X Games. Facilities: 44 trails; 470 acres; 2,030-foot vertical drop; 5 lifts. W. Buttermilk Rd., Aspen, Colorado, 81612. 970/925–1220; 800/525–6200; www.aspensnowmass.com. Lift ticket $179. Mid-Dec.–early Apr., daily 9–4.

Lessons and Programs

Aspen Mountain Powder Tours. This company provides access to 1,100 acres (or up to 12 untracked runs) on the back side of Aspen Mountain via a 12-person snowcat. Most of the backcountry terrain can be handled by confident intermediates, with about 10,000 vertical feet constituting a typical day's skiing. Reservations are required and should be made as early as possible beginning October 1. Full-day trips include a hearty lunch served in a cabin with a woodstove, snacks, wine, chair massages, two guides, and all the skiing you want. Aspen, Colorado. 970/920–0720; www.aspensnowmass.com. From $600.

Aspen Skiing Company. Aspen Skiing Company gives lessons at all four mountains. Full-day adult group lessons start at $248 for advance purchase; a private full-day lesson for up to five other people is another option. Beginner's Magic is a package for first-time adult skiers and snowboarders that includes a full-day lesson, lift ticket, and gear rental. Aspen Skiing Company also offers women-only clinics, children's lessons, and freestyle camps just for teens; check availability in advance. Aspen, Colorado, 81612. 970/925–1220; 800/525–6200; www.aspensnowmass.com. From $248.

Rentals

Numerous ski shops in Aspen rent equipment. Ski and snowboard rental packages start at around $60 per day and rise to $75 or more for the latest and greatest equipment. Reserve your gear online before you arrive in town to save 10%–20%. For convenience, consider ski-rental delivery to your hotel or condo.

Aspen Sports. This sporting-goods store has a huge inventory of winter gear to choose from. There are three locations in Aspen and three in Snowmass. 408 E. Cooper Ave., Aspen, Colorado, 81611. 970/925–6331; www.aspensports.com.

Black Tie Ski Rentals. Reserve your ski or snowboard package online or over the phone, and Black Tie Ski Rentals will deliver your gear directly to your condominium or hotel room. Aspen, Colorado. 970/925–8544; 800/925–8544; www.blacktieskis.com.

Four Mountain Sports. Owned by Aspen Skiing Company, Four Mountain Sports has an impressive inventory of ski and snowboard rental equipment and an equally impressive fleet of stores; there are nine locations, including one at the base of all four mountains. 520 E. Durant Ave., Aspen, Colorado, 81611. 970/920–2337; www.aspensnowmass.com.