This subterranean hot spot is sophisticated yet rustic, with an open-beam farmhouse ceiling, sleek blond-wood chairs, contemporary art, and a floor-to-ceiling glass wine cooler in the center of the room. The menu relies on simple, subtle flavors in specialties such as goat-cheese flan on mixed greens, gnocchi with duck ragout, risotto with veal sauce, and a delectable veal Milanese. For a change of pace, check out the carpaccio bar, which features wonderful cured meats and fish.
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