Nordic Skiing

Aspen

Backcountry Skiing

The Alfred A. Braun Hut System is one of Aspen's major backcountry networks. The trailhead leads from the Ashcroft Ski Touring Center into the Maroon Bells-Snowmass Wilderness. Take the usual precautions, because the trails cover terrain prone to avalanche. Huts sleep 7 to 14 people. They're open in winter only, and reservations can be made beginning May 1. Box 7937, Aspen, 81612. 970/925-5775. www.huts.org. $25 per person per night, 4-person minimum.

The 10th Mountain Hut & Trail System, named in honor of the U.S. Army's 10th Mountain Division, includes 10 huts along the trail connecting Aspen and Vail. The main trail follows a generally avalanche-safe route in altitudes from 8,000 feet to 12,000 feet. This translates to a fair amount of skiing along tree-lined trails and a good bit of high-alpine ups and downs. You must be in good shape, and some backcountry skiing experience is extremely helpful. Accommodations along the trail vary, but this system does include the Ritz-Carltons of backcountry huts, supplied with mattresses and pillows, precut logs for wood-burning stoves, and utensils for cooking. Huts sleep from 6 to 16 people (more if you're willing to cuddle). For a $25 membership fee, you can enter a reservation lottery in March. Otherwise, reservations are accepted beginning in April; weekends in peak ski season fill up quickly. 1280 Ute Ave., 81611. 970/925-5775. www.huts.org. $28 and up per person per night.

If you're either unfamiliar with the hut system or inexperienced in backcountry travel, you should hire a guide. One reliable company is Aspen Alpine Guides (Box 659, Aspen, 81612. 970/925-6618 or 800/643-8621. www.aspenalpine.com). In Aspen, the best place for backcountry-gear rentals (including ski equipment, climbing skins, packs, sleeping bags, and mountaineering paraphernalia) is the Ute Mountaineer (308 S. Mill St. 970/925-2849).

Track Skiing

There is something to be said for maintaining a wealthy tax base. Subsidized by local taxes, the Aspen/Snowmass Nordic Council (Box 10815, Aspen, 81612. 970/429-2039. www.aspennordic.com) charges no fee for the 48 mi of maintained trails in the Roaring Fork Valley, making it the largest free groomed Nordic-trail system in North America. For a longer ski try the Owl Creek Trail, connecting the Aspen Cross-Country Center trails with the Snowmass Club trail system. More than 10 mi long, the trail leads through some lovely scenery.

Lessons and rentals are available at the Aspen Cross-Country Center (39551 Hwy. 82. 970/925-2145). Diagonal, skating, racing, and light-touring setups are available.

About 12 mi from Aspen, the Ashcroft Ski Touring Center (11399 Castle Creek Rd. 970/925-1971) is sequestered in a high-alpine basin up Castle Creek, which runs between Aspen Mountain and Aspen Highlands. The 25 mi of groomed trails are surrounded by the high peaks of the Maroon Bells-Snowmass Wilderness, and crisscross the ghost town of Ashcroft. This is one of the most dramatic cross-country sites in the High Rockies.

Snowmass

Track Skiing

Aspen/Snowmass Nordic Council (Box 10815, Aspen, 81612. 970/429-2039) has 48 mi of maintained trails in the Roaring Fork Valley. Probably the most varied, in terms of scenery and terrain, is the 18-mi Snowmass Club trail network. For a longer ski, try the Owl Creek Trail, connecting the Snowmass Club trail system and the Aspen Cross-Country Center trails. More than 10 mi long, the trail provides both a good workout and a heavy dosage of woodsy beauty, with many ups and downs across meadows and aspen-gladed hillsides. Best of all, you can take the bus back to Snowmass Village when you're finished. Nordic-skiing equipment is available at the Snowmass Cross-Country Center (239 Snowmass Village Circle. 970/923-3148).

Redstone

Ute Meadows Nordic Center (2880 County Rd. 3. 970/963-5513; 970/948-1895 snow conditions) is a winter playground with 10 mi of groomed cross-country trails and countless miles of ungroomed skiing and snowshoe trails set in the remote reaches of the Crystal River valley. A complete rental shop, with services including waxing and tune-ups, is on the premises. Dogs are welcome to accompany skiers and snowshoers (there's a nominal fee).