Downhill Skiing & Snowboarding

Aspen

Aspen is really four ski areas rolled into one resort. Aspen Highlands, Aspen (or Ajax) Mountain, Buttermilk, and Snowmass can all be skied with the same ticket. Aspen, Aspen Highlands, and Buttermilk are clustered close to downtown Aspen, whereas Snowmass is down the valley near Snowmass Village. A free shuttle system connects the four.

Locals' favorite Aspen Highlands is essentially one long ridge with trails dropping off either side. Over the past few years the antiquated lift system has been replaced by three high-speed quads, and a massive base-area village has risen, turning the maverick ski hill into a destination in and of itself. Aspen Highlands has thrilling descents at Golden Horn, Olympic Bowl, and now, Highland Bowl, a hike-in experience unlike any in Colorado. The steep and often bumpy cluster of trails around Steeplechase and Highland Bowl makes this mountain one of the best places to be on a good-powder day. Aspen Highlands has a wide-open bowl called Thunder that's popular with intermediate skiers, as well as plenty of lower-mountain blue runs. The best overall downhill run is Highland Bowl. Besides the comparatively short lift lines and some heart-pounding runs, a highlight of Aspen Highlands is your first trip to the 12,500-foot summit. The view, which includes the Maroon Bells and Pyramid Peak, is the most dramatic in the area and one of the best in the country. Maroon Creek Rd. 970/925-1220 or 800/525-6200. www.aspensnowmass.com. Early Dec.-early Apr., daily 9-4.

Open since 1947, Aspen Mountain is a dream destination for mogul and steep skiers. Nearby Bell Mountain provides some of the best bump skiing anywhere, followed by Walsh's (also a favorite for snowboarders), Hyrup's, and Kristi's. Those wanting long cruisers head to the ridges or valleys: Ruthie's Run, Ridge of the Bell, and International are the classics. Newcomers should note that there are no novice-level runs here. This is a resort where nearly half the trails are rated advanced or expert, and a black-diamond trail here might rank as a double-black diamond elsewhere. The narrow ski area is laid out on a series of steep, unforgiving ridges with little room for error. Most skiers spend much of the morning on intermediate trails off the upper-mountain quad. Then they head for lunch on the deck of Bonnie's, the mid-mountain restaurant that on sunny days is one of the great people-watching scenes in the skiing world. After a big storm, there's snowcat skiing on the back side of the mountain. The biggest drawback to skiing at Aspen Mountain is that too many trails funnel into Spar Gulch, making the end-of-day rush to the bottom chaotic and often dangerous -- a situation that has become increasingly tense because snowboarders are now part of the mix. Durant St. 970/925-1220 or 800/525-6200. www.aspensnowmass.com. Late Nov.-mid-Apr., daily 9-4.

If you're looking for an escape from the hustle and bustle of Aspen, spend a day at Buttermilk -- a family-friendly place where it's virtually impossible to get into trouble. Buttermilk is terrific for novices, intermediates, and, thanks to its half-pipe and 2-mi-long Crazy T'rain Park, snowboarders. It's a low-key, lighthearted sort of place, and an antidote to the kind of hotdogging you might encounter at Aspen Mountain. Sterner Run is a favorite for its length and curves, while Racer's Edge appeals to speed demons. Among the featured attractions is a hangout for children named Fort Frog. The Tiehack section to the east, with sweeping views of Maroon Creek valley, has several advanced runs (though nothing truly expert). It also has superb powder, and the deep snow sticks around longer because many serious skiers overlook this mountain. Buttermilk's allure hasn't been lost on pros, however; it now hosts the Winter X Games. W. Buttermilk Rd. 970/925-1220 or 800/525-6200. www.aspensnowmass.com. Early Dec.-mid-Apr., daily 9-4.

Facilities

Aspen Highlands : 3,635-foot vertical drop; 790 skiable acres; 131 trails; 18% beginner, 30% intermediate, 16% advanced, 36% expert; 3 high-speed quad chairs, 2 triple chairs.

Aspen Mountain : 3,267-foot vertical drop; 673 skiable acres; 76 trails; 48% intermediate, 26% advanced, 26% expert; 1 6-passenger gondola, 1 high-speed quad chair, 2 quad chairs, 1 high-speed double chair, 3 double chairs.

Buttermilk : 2,030-foot vertical drop; 435 skiable acres; 44 trails; 35% beginner, 39% intermediate, 26% advanced; 2 high-speed quad chairs, 3 double chairs, 4 surface lifts.

Lessons & Programs

Aspen Skiing Company (970/925-1220 or 800/525-6200) gives lessons at all four mountains. Half-day group lessons start at $74, and a private half-day lesson will cost you $329. A noteworthy deal is the three-day guaranteed learn-to-ski or learn-to-snowboard package at Snowmass or Buttermilk, which includes lessons, rental gear, and lift tickets for $327. The company also runs snowcat trips on Aspen Mountain.

Aspen Mountain Powder Tours (970/925-1220) provides access to 1,500 acres on the back side of Aspen Mountain via snowcats. Most of the terrain is negotiable by confident intermediates, with about 10,000 vertical feet constituting a typical day's skiing. Reservations are required at least a day in advance, but you should book as early as possible. Trips cost $335.

Lift Tickets

Lift tickets are $87, but almost nobody pays full price thanks to multiday savings, early- and late-season specials, and other discounts.

Rentals

Numerous ski shops in Aspen rent equipment. Rental packages (skis, boots, and poles) start at around $40 per day and rise to $50 or more for the latest and greatest equipment. Snowboard packages (boots and boards) run about $40. Bargain shopping at stores around town may turn up better deals. Aspen Sports (408 E. Cooper Ave. 970/925-6331) has plenty of gear to choose from. Durrance Sports (414 E. Cooper Ave. 970/429-0101), in Aspen Highlands Village, has equipment from many companies. Pomeroy Sports (614 E. Durrant Ave. 970/925-7875), at the base of Aspen Mountain gondola, has good deals on equipment.

Snowmass

Snowmass is a sprawling ski area, the biggest of the four Aspen-area mountains. Aspen Highlands, Aspen Mountain, Buttermilk, and Snowmass can all be skied with the same ticket. A free shuttle system connects all four. Snowmass now includes 64,000 square feet of new shops and restaurants, the new Elk Camp Gondola, and Elk Camp Meadows Activity Center. There are six distinct sectors: Elk Camp, High Alpine-Alpine Springs, Big Burn, Sam's Knob, Two Creeks, and Campground. Except for the last two, all these sectors funnel into the pedestrian mall at the base. Snowmass is probably best known for Big Burn, itself a great sprawl of wide-open, intermediate skiing. Experts head to such areas as Hanging Valley and the Cirque for the best turns.

At Snowmass 50% of the 3,128 skiable acres are designated for intermediate-level skiers. The route variations down Big Burn are essentially inexhaustible, and there are many other places on the mountain for intermediates to find entertainment. The novice and beginning-intermediate terrain on the lower part of the mountain makes Snowmass a terrific place for younger children.

But don't overlook the fact that Snowmass is four times the size of Aspen Mountain, and has triple the black- and double-black-diamond terrain of its famed sister, including several fearsomely precipitous gullies at Hanging Valley. Although only 32% of the terrain is rated advanced or expert, this huge mountain has enough difficult runs, including the consistently challenging Powderhorn and the more-relaxed Sneaky's Run, to satisfy all but the most demanding skiers.

Snowboarders take note: This mountain has one of the most comprehensive snowboarding programs in the country, with the heart of the action in the Headwall Cirque. A special terrain map points out the numerous snowboard-friendly trails and terrain parks while steering riders away from flat spots. You'll want to visit Trenchtown in the Coney Glade area, which has two lift-accessed pipes, video evaluation, piped-in music, and a yurt hangout complete with couches and snacks. West of Aspen via Brush Creek Rd. or Owl Creek Rd. 970/925-1220 or 800/525-6200. www.aspensnowmass.com. Late Nov.-mid-Apr., daily 9-4.

Facilities

4,406-foot vertical drop; 3,100 skiable acres; 88 trails; 6% beginner, 50% intermediate, 12% advanced, 32% expert; 24 lifts, 1 8-passenger gondola, 1 high-speed 6-passenger chair, 1 6-passenger gondola, 6 high-speed quad chairs, 2 quads, 4 double lifts, 5 magic carpets, 2 school lifts, 2 platter pulls.

Lessons & Programs

Aspen Skiing Company (Snowmass Village Mall. 970/925-1220 or 800/525-6200) gives lessons at Snowmass and Aspen's other mountains.

Lift Tickets

Lift tickets are $87, but almost nobody pays full price thanks to multiday savings, early- and late-season specials, and other discounts.

Rentals

Snowmass has numerous ski shops offering rental packages (skis, boots, and poles). Aspen Sports (70 Snowmass Village Mall. 970/923-6111) is one of the best-known outfitters in Snowmass. Incline Ski Shop (1 Snowmass Village Mall. 970/923-4726) is just steps from the shuttle-bus stop.

Glenwood Springs

Sunlight Mountain Resort, 20 minutes south of Glenwood Springs, is affordable Colorado skiing at its best. Overshadowed by world-class neighbors, the resort sees far less traffic than typical Colorado slopes. Fresh powder, typically skied off at Aspen within an hour, can last as long as two days here on classic downhill runs like Sun King and steeps like Beaujolais; you won't stand in any lines at the four lifts. The resort has 67 trails including the super-steep glades of Extreme Sunlight, with a drop of 2,010 vertical feet. The varied terrain, sensational views, and lack of pretension make this a local favorite. Snowboarders even have a dedicated feature -- the Peace Pipe. Families will appreciate that every child under 12 skis free with an adult and every slope meets at the bottom. For winter sports enthusiasts who don't want to ride a chairlift, there's a 20-mi network of cross-country ski and snowshoe trails just off the slopes. The cafeteria has cold sandwiches, burgers, and pizzas. 10901 County Rd. 117. 970/945-7491 or 800/445-7931. www.sunlightmtn.com. Late Nov.-early Apr., daily 9-4.

Facilities

2,010-foot vertical drop; 475 skiable acres; 67 trails; 20% beginner, 55% intermediate, 20% advanced, 5% expert; 4 lifts, 1 triple chair, 2 double chairs, 1 surface lift.

Lessons & Programs

Two-hour ski lessons (including gear rental and lift ticket) cost $75; snowboarding is $80. Five-hour ski lessons are $115, $120 for snowboarding.

The resort offers exciting half- and full-day backcountry skiing courses for skiers who want an off-piste adventure. The courses are conducted on nearby Williams Peak. All rescue gear -- avalanche beacon, probes, and shovels -- are included in the price ($75 for half day; $110 for full day) and instructors teach basic route-finding, avalanche awareness, and backcountry skiing techniques.

The resort, in conjunction with Glenwood Springs, also offers a ski-stay-swim package for $60. It includes one night's lodging, a big breakfast, a full-day ski pass, and a full-day at the Glenwood Hot Springs Pool.

Lift Tickets

Lift tickets are the second cheapest in the state, only $45 at the window. But, as at all Colorado ski resorts, no one ever needs to pay full price. Purchase a discounted pass at the Safeway or King Soopers grocery store in Glenwood Springs.

Rentals

Sunlight Mountain Ski Resort (10901 County Rd. 117. 970/945-7491 or 800/445-7931) has complete rental gear setups on shaped skis. Rentals of the latest snowboards are available for as little as $20. The resort's retail outlet, Sunlight Ski and Bike Shop (309 9th St., . 970/945-9425), is in Glenwood Springs.