Fodor's Expert Review That's Italian

For northern Italian cuisine in a no-frills trattoria, this is the spot. Try the braised lamb shanks in a Chianti wine sauce, grilled rib eye with chef's seasonal sauce, or the filet mignon with shrimp, roasted pepper, and onions in a demiglaze sauce. To drift back to old Italy—or 1950s Kernville, perhaps—sample the spaghetti and meatballs.