Osteria Stellina Review
The vaguely industrial-chic overtones of this West Marin star's otherwise rustic-contemporary decor hint at the panache that enlivens chef-owner Christian Caiazzo's "Point Reyes Italian" cuisine. The emphasis on locally sourced ingredients makes for ingenious combinations—oysters harvested a just a few miles away, for instance, anchor a pizza with leeks braised in cream from Marin and Sonoma cows and garnished with parsley and lemon thyme. Pastas and pizzas dominate the menu, which might contain as few as two entrées for lunch and a handful for dinner. The hit at lunch, tomato minestra, is a lightly spiced seafood concoction reminiscent of gumbo; dinner might include osso buco that pairs Niman Ranch veal with Marin-grown kale, or braised goat with greens from Stellina's own farm.