Chef-owner Russell Moore cooked at Chez Panisse for two decades before opening this restaurant with co-owner Allison Hopelain that focuses on simple, seasonal, straightforward dishes cooked in an enormous, crackling camino (Italian for "fireplace"). Everything is made with top-notch ingredients, including local sardines and smelts, grilled lamb and sausage, and Dungeness crab (cooked in the fireplace with rutabagas). The menu changes nightly and includes vegetarian options such as eggplant gratin. Camino is decorated in a Craftsman-meets-refectory style, with brick walls and two long redwood communal tables. The small bar here turns out delicious, seasonally inspired cocktails, among them a gin-based one with house-made cherry and hibiscus bitters.