The coast at its most dressed up, Cetrella is all polished wood and pressed tablecloths, and it hits every mark: adventurous wine list, sumptuous cheese course, and live jazz on Friday and Saturday nights. The creative menu pairs regional produce and fish with choice imported ingredients such as tangy Italian Burrata di Bufala cheese. What results are sophisticated but not stuffy dishes such as the wood oven–roasted pork chop served with apple-endive compote and
crushed potatoes. The bar has a smaller and cheaper but no less delectable menu, and Sunday brunch is popular.