On the edge of Berkeley's Gourmet Ghetto, this lively spot serves up excellent Florentine cuisine in a spare but snazzy space. The open kitchen at the back dominates the room (which can get smoky at times), and the closely spaced tables add to the festivity of dining here. The seasonal menu might include pan-roasted sturgeon with Brussels sprouts or butter-roasted chicken breast. Side dishes are ordered separately; the baked polenta with mascarpone and Parmesan is a definite crowd pleaser. An extensive Italian wine list complements the menu; save room for the memorable panna cotta.