Fodor's Northern California 2014
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Attention to detail and artistic presentations are the hallmarks of this recent venture from the creators of Berkeley's Gather restaurant. The dining room's brick walls, soft lighting, and dark-wood accents hint at chef Sean Baker’s meticulous approach, and jars of pickled onions, peppers, and other vegetables—backlit and stacked high on wooden shelves—make clear the important role plant life plays in his menu. Each element seems carefully thought out, from the artisanal bread and butter to the carrots swimming in a smoky, barbecue-like sauce whose ingredients include cashews, lemon verbena, and mulberry-date molasses. The menu changes often but might include sardines with cauliflower, horseradish, trout roe, and chickweed; Koji quail served on Sonoma grains with slices of hedgehog mushroom awash in pumpkin juice; or duck meatballs in mole sauce.
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