Eating at this 14-table spot can be described as a festive parade of hors d'oeuvre, with bite-sized "provisions" rolled around on carts and diners picking what they want. Prices for provisions, ranging from $3 to $8, are displayed on placards and tallied up as the dinner unfolds. Those who eat with their eyes, and not their stomachs, should be cautious. This is dim-sum format, only rather than dumplings, the choices include half dollar–sized thick savory pancakes stuffed with sauerkraut; giant nori chips topped with Hamachi, radishes, and avocados; and kimchi yuba noodles with housemade egg bottarga. Each night roughly a dozen provisions are offered, along with commandables (larger dishes, including the state bird, quail, batter-dipped), and desserts. The colorful, airy dining room with pegboard walls has a high school art-room vibe, decorated as it is with string art and folksy wooden cutouts shaped like food. The staff is super friendly. Because a reservation here is among the most sought-after in the city the wait can be onerous, but the host will take your number, recommend a nearby wine bar, and call when a table is ready.