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Fodor's Northern California 2014
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Rich Table Review
A new addition to Hayes Valley, this restaurant is a brilliant example of fine-dining minus preciousness or formality. It starts with bar bites, which take simple ingredients like Castelvetrano olives and make them exquisite by marinating them in a wasabi, seaweed, and lime juice. A casual concept like doughnuts becomes masterful at the hands of co-chefs Evan and Sarah Rich whose dried-porcini ones are served with a raclette béchamel sauce for dipping. To this point, it's all finger food. But forks and knives are put to use for the half-dozen pastas and an equal amount of appetizer and mains created by the Riches, alumni of NYC's Bouley and Mas (farmhouse), and Quince, Michael Mina, and Coi. Vased branches decorate the dining room that has weathered-wood wallboards repurposed from a Northern California sawmill. Ten bar seats are available for walk-ins. There's a nice selection of wines by the glass, artisanal cocktails, and even original dessert cocktails like the 1 up (for Mario Bros. fans), with porcini-infused gin, sherry, egg, and cream.
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