This Hayes Valley restaurant is a brilliant example of fine dining without preciousness or formality. Beginning with the bar bites co-chefs Evan and Sarah Rich, alumni of Manhattan's Bouley restaurant and Mas (farmhouse) and San Francisco's Quince, Michael Mina, and Coi, magically transform simple ingredients such as Castelvetrano olives by marinating them in wasabi, seaweed, and lime juice. Casual doughnuts become exquisite delicacies—the dried-porcini ones are served
with a raclette béchamel sauce for dipping. To this point, it's all finger food, but forks and knives are put to use for the half-dozen pastas and an equal number of appetizer and mains. Vased branches decorate the dining room, which has weathered-wood wallboards repurposed from a Northern California sawmill. There's a nice selection of wines by the glass and artisanal cocktails. There are even some original dessert cocktails, including the 1 up (for Mario Bros. fans), with porcini-infused gin, sherry, egg, and cream. Ten bar seats are available for walk-ins.