This restaurant can claim the superlative of being the only Swedish restaurant in San Francisco. Tucked behind the lobby of the Inn at the Opera, Pläj has tried to remake the fusty wood-paneled hotel dining room more modern by adding natural touches (branches, succulents) and arty lighting—and by serving a very refreshing cuisine, like the freshest of fishes that are pickled, smoked, and cured in-house. A dill purée with lemon crème fraîche and a homemade spicy mustard complement the delicate salmon gravlax. Chef Roberth Sundell is from Stockholm, and the Swedish meatballs with lingonberry gravy and pickled cucumbers is a treasured family recipe. The menu is broken into four parts: vegetables, fish, meat, and desserts; and all plates are meant for sharing. The money spot is the table in front of the fireplace. FYI, Pläj is pronounced "play" and has no Swedish translation. It's just pläjing with you.