Hang on, because chef Jake Des Voignes is about take you on a seafood joyride. With no industrial ovens or high-powered burners, this 30-seat place is really about the delicate, natural flavors of California's seasonal bounty, from the fish to the fennel, Japanese yams, and sunchokes. In typical San Francisco style, the menu reads like a jumble of ingredients, making it difficult to imagine how they might taste together, but each dish works beautifully, like creamy uni
with crunchy English peas and preserved Meyer lemon, or cured halibut with diced, sweet pluots. To immerse yourself in Des Voignes's genius, make a reservation for the seven-course tasting ($65) at the chef's counter. The three-course brunches are as well-crafted as dinner, with dishes that include waffles with chicory syrup, and chicken sausage and polenta. Although the food is solid, the service is too casual.