Central Kitchen Review
It's nearly impossible to score seats at chef Thomas McNaughton's highly lauded Flour + Water. That's why many had plum visions of sampling his cuisine again when the Gary Danko alumnus opened this spot in a former sausage factory. Central Kitchen is the centerpiece of a modern open space, with tea lights strung along the ceiling; also in the building are Salumeria (a deli and larder, which sells Flour + Water pastas) and Trick Dog, an energetic cocktail bar. The menu is original, with playful combos and surprising flavors: Parker House rolls baked with coffee and caraway; raw Hamachi topped with fennel (from the rooftop garden) roasted until it's ash, for a strong smokiness that combines with citruses into a vinaigrette; an inky cioppino, with burnt peppers as its base that make the broth luscious. In addition to the starters, there are about four main-dish items nightly. The seven-course tasting menu ($95) provides the ultimate food journey.