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Fodor's Northern California 2014
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Central Kitchen Review
It's nearly impossible to score seats at chef Thomas McNaughton's highly lauded Flour + Water. That's why many had plum visions of eating his food again when the Gary Danko alumnus opened his latest spot in a former sausage factory. Central Kitchen is the centerpiece in a modern open space, with tea lights strung along the ceiling; also in the building is Salumeria (a deli and larder, which sells Flour + Water pastas) and Trick Dog, an energetic cocktail bar. The menu is original, with playful combos and surprising flavors: Parker House rolls baked with coffee and caraway; raw Hamachi topped with fennel (from the rooftop garden) roasted till it's ash, for a strong smokiness that combines with citruses into a vinaigrette; an inky cioppino, with burnt peppers as its base, making the broth luscious. There are about four main-dish items nightly (plus starters). For the ultimate food journey, the seven-course tasting menu is the way to go ($89).
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