Fodor's Northern California 2014
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Annie and Craig Stoll, the owners of Delfina, have bestowed another culinary gift on the city. This time her name is Locanda, and the menu is Roman inspired. A dangerously addictive starter is pizza bianca: chewy, hot bread that holds mini puddles of olive oil and is sprinkled with sea salt. It's hard to decide on a pasta with so many represented. A signature one, tonnarelli cacio e pepe, is a creamy, peppery smack of flavor. A good strategy here is to double down on pastas and antipasti, then share a main, like the lamb scottadito, seasoned with anchovies and coriander. Finely made cocktails (Negroni flights even) arrive at dark-wood tables on a candlelit tray, and white Heath wall tiles pump up the sophisticated interior. This is a busy place with the bar stools constantly occupied, and the communal table filling quickly each night.
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