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Fodor's Northern California 2014
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Flour + Water
Flour + Water Review
It used to be that people flooded the gates of this hotspot for the blistery thin-crust Neapolitan pizza, but these days it's the pasta that holds court, merging beautifully with chef Thomas McNaughton's whole animal sensibilities. A grand experience is the 7-course pasta-tasting menu at $65 per person (plus $45 for wine pairings). The homemade mustard tagliatelle with smoked lamb's tongue is surprisingly zippy with lemon zest lifting and extracting flavors. The perfectly chewy Rigatoni comes with a braised-pork-laced tomato sauce. Pizzas are still being pulled from the 900-degree wood burning oven, but they aren't what they used to be. The dining room was designed by whimsical Paxton Gate, with their touches felt throughout, like table-top beakers for candle holders, a moth-wing wall mural, and a cabinet of taxidermy in the bathroom. Expect a noisy, boisterous scene. Tables are jockeyed over here and getting a reservation is one of the longest-running jokes in town. (Walk-ins are ecstatic to nab a seat at the reclaimed wood bar, made from wine-barrel staves). Best bet is to come when the doors open.
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