Quietly elegant, heavily mirrored and bouqueted, and playing mostly to a society crowd, this spot is among the city's most lauded seafood restaurants and among the most expensive. The kitchen, known for using exquisite ingredients, assembles beautiful preparations that are seriously fancy but not too fussy: tuna tartare with Moroccan spices, sturgeon and veal-cheek bourguignon, ahi tuna and squab breast. Lunch offers an à la carte menu, a three-course business lunch ($45),
and a six-course tasting menu ($60), but dinner is a strictly prix-fixe affair, with three courses for $75. Lottery winners can opt for the seven-course tasting menu for $130. Service is as smooth as silk, desserts are showy, and the wine list is as high-class as the clientele. And if you find the house olive oil particularly tasty, Aqua sells it by the bottle.