Don't be tempted to order a Szechuan or Beijing dish here or you'll leave unhappy. This is a Cantonese restaurant, and that means fresh, simply prepared seafood, quickly cooked vegetables and meats, clear soups, and no fiery chilies. Tanks filled with crabs, black bass, catfish, shrimp, and other freshwater- and saltwater creatures occupy a corner of the street-level main dining room. Look to them for your meal, but check prices, as swimming seafood isn't cheap. Kids will
find their Chinese-restaurant favorites here: stir-fried noodles, cashew chicken, fried rice. Dim sum (until 3 pm) is also popular (there aren't any carts, however—you order off a paper sheet, and the dumplings come out of the kitchen piping hot). Avoid the basement dining room if possible, which is brightly lit but also claustrophobic. Toward midnight, Chinese night owls drop in for a plate of noodles or a bowl of congee (rice porridge).
649 Jackson St., San Francisco, California, 94133, United States