Don't be tempted to order a Szechuan or Beijing dish here or you'll leave unhappy. This is a Cantonese restaurant, and that means fresh, simply prepared seafood, quickly cooked vegetables and meats, clear soups, and no fiery chilies. Tanks filled with crabs, black bass, catfish, shrimp, and other creatures of fresh water and saltwater occupy a corner of the street-level main dining room. Look to them for your meal, but check prices, as swimming seafood isn't cheap. Kids will find their Chinese-restaurant favorites here: stir-fried noodles, cashew chicken, fried rice. Avoid the basement dining room, which is brightly lighted but also claustrophobic. In the wee hours Chinese night owls often drop in for a plate of noodles or a bowl of congee rice porridge.
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