Edgy California cuisine—that's what chef Elizabeth Falkner has dubbed the fare at her chic South of Market restaurant. This self-proclaimed edginess translates into some creative touches, like king salmon with bamboo rice and Lapsang tea butter, or blue-cheese ice cream with a fried-chicken ballontine. But there are also many familiar but delicious dishes, like wood-fired mussels with chorizo, house-made mozzarella with eggplant caponata, half a dozen pizzas nicely crisp
from the wood-burning oven, and short ribs. The Orson burger and duck-fat fries also have their own fan club. The after-work crowd takes over the circular bar and lounge Tuesday to Saturday with five-buck cocktails from 5 to 7. Lunch and brunch both have the kinds of menus that will make you a repeat customer.