The dining room -- pale walls, dark-wood floors, a partial view of the kitchen -- reflects a strong sense of restraint. The same no-nonsense quality characterizes the authentic Italian food of owner-chef Ruggero Gadaldi. A small, regularly shifting, honestly priced menu delivers archetypal dishes such as crostini with chicken liver pâté, pappardelle (wide flat noodles) with wild boar, braised duck with porcini, and tagliata di manzo (beef fillet slices) with arugula. The wine list is fairly priced, the genial service is polished but not stiff, and the $23 prix-fixe menu (before 6:30) is a boon to fatigued pocketbooks.
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