This restaurant introduced the lightly seasoned Hakka cuisine of southern China, rarely found in this country and even obscure to many Chinese. Salt-baked chicken, stuffed bean curd, steamed fresh bacon with dried mustard greens, chicken in wine sauce, and clay pots of meats and seafood are among the hallmarks of the Hakka kitchen, and all of them are done well here, as the tables packed with local Chinese families and others prove. Don't overlook the excellent seafood
offerings like salt-and-pepper shrimp, catfish in black-bean sauce, or stir-fried crab with ginger and scallions. Even though it's pricey, Ton Kiang is a local favorite for dim sum, opening in the morning for delicate dumplings of pea shoots and shrimp, scallops and shrimp, and pork and greens. If you're visiting the city, it's worth the trip across town. Expect a noontime rush (around 11 am on the weekend); a small selection of dim sum is available at night, too.