Pass through the door of this modest storefront and you'll feel as if you've stumbled into a homey trattoria in Italy, with the staff chattering in Italian and seductive aromas drifting from the open kitchen through the sunny yellow dining room. Each day the kitchen produces small plates of simply cooked vegetables (grilled peppers, roasted potatoes with yams and carrots), a few baked pastas, a daily special or two, lamb skewers, a roast of the day, creamy polenta, and
thin-crust pizzas—including a memorable "white" pie topped with porcini mushrooms and mozzarella. (All the hot dishes come out of an oven—no stove here, so don't come expecting a large selection of pastas.) Wine drinkers will find a good match for any dish they order on the all-Italian list, which showcases gems from limited-production vineyards. At lunch try one of North Beach's best focaccia sandwiches. The space is petite, so don't come with a large group, and there can often be a wait for a table.