This busy spot is named for one of North Beach's most revered barkeeps (and fortunately the cocktails here are excellent), while the food celebrates the neighborhood's early Ligurian settlers. A big bar area opens onto the sidewalk, and an exhibition kitchen lets you keep an eye on your order. The menu changes daily, but a large assortment of antipasti—house-made salumi; grilled octopus with potatoes; bruschetta with crabmeat and romesco—and pizzas from the wood-burning
oven are delicious, as are the cioppino made with local fish and the freshly made pastas. The menu was revamped by executive chef Mark Gordon (also of Terzo), bringing the quality and style up to the times. Live jazz accompanies dinner Thursday to Sunday. Even though the tab can shoot up pretty fast, the tourist-heavy crowds keep coming.