This busy spot is named for one of North Beach's most revered barkeeps, while the food celebrates the neighborhood's early Ligurian settlers. A large assortment of antipasti—beets and fennel with ricotta salata, house-cured fish, grass-fed beef carpaccio—and pizzas from the wood-burning oven are favorites, as are the cioppino and the fresh fish of the day served in various ways. A big bar area opens onto the sidewalk, and an exhibition kitchen lets you keep an eye on your order. Even though service sometimes arrives with attitude and the kitchen is occasionally slapdash, the crowds keep coming.
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