Aromatic Thai basil, lemongrass, and softly sizzling chilies perfume this modest neighborhood restaurant, opened by Cambodian refugees in the late 1980s. The menu includes an array of curries; salads of squid or cold noodles with ground fish; a crisp, pork-and-sprout-filled crepe; and lightly curried fish mousse cooked in a banana leaf basket. Chicken grilled on skewers and served with mild pickled vegetables is a house specialty, as are the green papaya salad, the stewed ground pork (prahok) in coconut milk with spices, and the panfried catfish. Vegetarians will be happy to discover two full pages of selections. Service is friendly though sometimes languid, so don't stop here when you're in a hurry.