The secret of how this quarter-century-old Italian delicatessen-restaurant, operated by well-known chef and cookbook author Carlo Middione, has outlasted many of its competitors is simple: authentic, carefully made trattoria dishes served by an engaged staff. The regularly changing menu includes simple fare at lunchtime -- frittata, smoked-chicken salad, sandwiches, pastas -- and classier plates at night -- prosciutto with figs, steamed mussels with saffron, fresh fettuccine with house-made fennel sausage, and risotto with shrimp and lemon. Glass cases holding dozens of prepared delicacies span one wall, making takeout easy when time is short.
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